Table of Contents
Day 15 Ston to Dubrovnik (50 km)
Departure at 8:30 : For once, an early start towards Dubrovnik.
I arrive at 12:00, I meet Fanny and Alice again, who give me 2-3 sightseeing tips. These are my last days in Croatia; I’m excited to head to Montenegro, which is very foreign to me (though the elevation gain and mountains are a bit less exciting).
I start to explore the impregnable fortress walls from this medieval city that reached its peak of power in the 16th century. The hidden bars by the water are very enjoyable. I also treat myself with a delicious fig and hazelnut pastry.
On returning to the hostel, I meet Walid (a Parisian on vacation) and Rémi, a globe-trotting Physical Education teacher in French Guiana for 2 years, who crossed South America with a girl, then teaching in Oyonnax (some French city) now spending a year backpacking around Europe and Africa. We also meet Weiji (a kind and young Chinese woman studying in France and traveling alone like a pro). We have a beer on the terrace of the 2 buddies followed by going out in the city. We meet two very typical Scottish women (flourished accent included) smoking cigars like two mafia bosses haha, the city is a hive of encounters. We go to bed very late; we’ll rest tomorrow.
Day 16 Dubrovnik Pause
Late wake-up with a nice breakfast with the duo from the previous night. Sharing yogurt, muesli, bread, honey, jam, etc., it’s very much appreciated cohesion moment. I then enjoy the beach for the whole afternoon with Weiji.
After the swimming session, the four of us (Walid, Rémi, Weiji and I) head to the Srđ (an incredible viewpoint over Dubrovnik and its surroundings), planning to arrive at sunset. Despite the tough climb, we’re all very happy to be there. I savor my Ragusa beer (the old name of the city during its independent city-state period, impenetrable even for the Ottomans) with the splendid sunset. It was perfect. The nighttime descent was a bit trickier. Dinner consists of bread and pâté to save money (sometimes you have to be a cheap as*).
Then, a late-night meetup in the city with the Scottish women from the previous night. I even got to teach one of them some French, which was quite funny. The little compliment about my slight accent and good English vocabulary didn’t go unnoticed either 😛
It’s getting late, and everything is crowded, so we decide to head back and discuss travel plans. Walid will soon return to France for a short-term stay, Rémi will continue his journey through Montenegro and then Albania, and I’ll head to Montenegro and then Serbia. Encounters are always enriching; so far, often French, but I hope it will be more local in the future 🙂
Day 17 Dubrovnik to Kotor (MNE) (92 km)
Today, departure at 11 AM (92 km) for the first destination that has been on my mind since planning the trip : KOTOR. I’m excited because it will be one of the most distant european areas I could visit in a country which I know absolutely nothing about. Fingers crossed for the border crossing. The more I think about it, the more anxious I get, but the crossing goes smoothly with just my ID card, like a breeze. It takes no more than a minute.
I cycle along the coast and then arrive at the bay… how to say, it’s magnificent. It looks like a lake, but it’s actually a sea arm in the mountains. It’s a succession of small towns with Ottoman and Venetian influences. The zigzags are a bit annoying at times, but with these views, you forget such frustrations and just appreciate.
I arrive at the hostel run by a super chill Australian, a really nice guy. I meet Rémi again, who left earlier by bus. No one else in our 15-bed dorm, due to Covid, few people come here. We settle on the terrace for the Champions League final, lost by PSG, unfortunately. For 8€ at BBQ Tanjga, we have a royal meal (2 meats, salads, and fries) in a super local restaurant/butcher shop, a real gem shared by our Australian host, we love it (yes, the Euro in Montenegro makes sense separated by non Euro-using countries).
Day 18 Kotor Pause 1
We get moving with Rémi for his early departure. He will have to climb 1700m of elevation gain in the day; I will accompany him up to 450 m height with a beautiful view of the city and the bay. We get along really well, jokes abound, and the Alsace flag overlooks Kotor. I leave him to his hiking pleasure. Some amazing stories he shared from his teaching days, a unique character. I hope to meet him again on his journey through Montenegro.
After lunch, departure by boat for a 3.5-hour tour of the bay.
First, Perast with Our Lady of the Rocks on its islet, sublime and improbable. A lady tells me they still hold mass there.
The boat rocks a lot, it’s pretty fun. A Polish couple shares some fruits and a little appetizer with me. We spot Mamula, a fortress on an island built by the Austro-Hungarians, requisitioned by the Italian fascists as a concentration camp during World War II; rumors say they are turning it into a hotel now, quite a twist of history.
We continue to the Blue Caves with a plunge into the super blue water thanks to the outside light reflection. We finish at a submarine base, also set up under Mussolini’s reign. For 200m deep, it’s covered with “stones” made of polystyrene for camouflage, clever and light!
In the evening, I want to quench my thirst at the bar, pints at 2€ , and the Gintonic at 4€ at Klub Invalida are extremely pleasing hehe. I continue to the Letrika Bar with a bit more ambiance; the Montenegrins let loose. A group of young people invites me to their table. I also discover that Montenegro is called Tsrna Gora but written as Crna Gora (meaning Black Mountain, of course). My journey through Slavic languages is just beginning and gonna be fun for sure. The alcohol got to my head though; I’ll take it a bit easier tomorrow.
In the group I also meet Gina, a very nice German woman who shares her tips and warns me that it will be a bit colder in the heights in the coming days, of course.
Day 19 Kotor Pause 2
Today’s goal, the cat museum. Apparently, there are many in the city, but I haven’t seen that many so far.
I wake up at 11:30, alcolohol and lack of sleep, perfect cocktail to hurt my sould x) I must try the mussels alla Buzara. Cooked in white wine, garlic, and herbs, if you add tomatoes, it’s the “red” version. That’s what I’m looking for after some advice. They are delicious at the Konoba (restaurant) on the street. I then try the Krempita, a similar Mille-feuille, which was a bit too rich for my taste. The cream layer was a bit too generous; a slight adjustment to lighten it and balance, the dessert would be better.
In the center, 2 churches face each other: one 100% Orthodox (St. Nicholas Church) and one Orthodox and partly Catholic (St. Luke Church).
- I enter St. Nicholas first. The Orthodox churchgoers intrigue me by making the sign of the cross several times to enter and leave the church, and also by kissing the famous icons of their cult.
- As for Saint-Luc church, it’s a curious mix with one altar Catholic and the other Orthodox, I’m pretty confused. After some research, I learn that it has changed cults over the course of its history. Initially Orthodox, it became Catholic for a time under Austrian rule. Despite a return to Orthodoxy, it retained its second Catholic altar, which explains the whole enigma. It is also said to be the only historic building to have fully survived an earthquake in the city in 1979 (surely the little Jesus who rescued it).
So, I wanted to see the cat museum? Well, it’s closed for now… so I’ll rest to go out again. But at least I can confirm after today that cats are everywhere in the old town.
Afterwards, I find myself in a bar (Karampana Caffe) with a nice atmosphere, Balkan songs that everyone seems to know, it’s pleasant to see people so happy outside in those lockdown times. As usual, I’m shy but decide to approach a group of guys from Podgorica (the country’s capital). They are here on vacation and offer me 2 beers, which is nice. One of them even has connections with the Montenegrin president. It’s a big deal here, and he lets me know it proudly haha. Two very charming girls are part of the group and even speak a bit of French, which is, of course, pleasant, you can imagine. I can confirm, Montenegrin women are beautiful.
But now, after these two jovial nights, I can’t wait to sleep and gather some strength to leave this city that has greatly charmed me; I’ll definitely come back one day.
Day 20 Kotor to Budva (42 km)
Wake up at 8:00; I’ve booked a diving trip in Budva for the next day, so I have to stick to the schedule. But first, breakfast with my Australian hostel buddy. He fell in love with Kotor and its bay after coming from Dubrovnik and decided to stay here. However, he’s considering moving to the south of France if it works out, otherwise returning to Australia. We take a friendship photo of a rooster and a wallaby and our ways are parting.
Well, I have to get started. I pass through Tivat, which isn’t very special except for being modern and a spot for rich tourists who want to dock their yacht and splash cash.
I quickly arrive in Budva and briefly explore the old town (a sort of mini Kotor) only to realize I can’t find any hostel to stay. So, I climb the city hills and find a ruined castle that looks nice for a night under the stars on the coast, away from the population…
All this before the MAIN event of the trip. When I finally settle down to read and doze off, noises and then moans make me realize that others have decided to have a good time in this unusual place. I stay still for a good half hour, afraid of being discovered by a naked couple 😀 Fortunately, a man comes to evict them and doesn’t notice me; I can then sleep “peacefully,” if you can call it that way.
Day 21 Budva to Virpazar (85 km)
Wake up at 7:00 for the diving, which is postponed from 9:00 to 12:00. Ants have made a home near me. The syrup from the Baklavas and crumbs attracted them. So, I have to flee with a beautiful sunrise over the city.
I wander around the city before joining Damjan, my diving instructor for the day through the Budva Diving Center. 30 minutes admiring the shallow marine life of the area. He stays “glued” to me to manage in case of panic, and we communicate with hand signals. The photos aren’t amazing, but the spectacle was really breathtaking. From colorful fish (one looked like a good old Renault F1 from the Alonso era, bright Yellow and Blue), another hiding timidly under a rock but staring me right in the eyes, another camouflaged in the sand, a sort of hairy millipede, and finally the marine tunnel, I am left speechless. The movements, signals, and breathing techniques are quickly acquired; I think this level of diving is within everyone’s reach if you are motivated. I might be tempted to retry again and who knows trying to get a Padi license.
I then head towards Virpazar (85 km to cover in half a day). I see the coast one last time, especially Sveti Stefan, the fancy rock of Montenegro that has its charm. Goodbye, Adriatic, which has accompanied me well for 3 weeks; its colors and Mediterranean ambiance have greatly pleased me.
Time for the land and rivers for the rest of my journey. The last view was incredible, even though the bad news of the day is seeing my panniers tearing at the sides; I’ll need to urgently tape them up in the capital tomorrow.
I hurry to join Rémi for a night in a tent on the field of a kind but somewhat worn-out old man. Rémi tells me about his kayaking day on Lake Skadar and the adventures of the past few days over a hearty meal of various fried lake fish at the restaurant on a boat, the Silistria. Sleeping in a tent in a quiet garden is gonna be pleasant, feeling somehow safe.
My trip in the inner land and heights of Montenegro is about to start, for this, rendez-vous at Week 4.
