My initial objective finally accomplished, it’s time for me to appreciate the city of Hiroshima and its neighbouring island, Miyajima. A nice moment of contemplation is coming at me. After careful consideration, I opt to prolong the pleasure before a final return to Tokyo. The surprise would turn out to be Mount Fuji, perfectly placed on the way back to the capital with my steed.
Table of Contents
Day 53 Hiroshima Pause 1
Upon waking up, I seriously ponder what to do since my flight is in 11 days and numerous ideas have crossed my mind. One idea stands out the most: I want to take the Shinkansen again but also cover some kilometers by bike to return to Tokyo. This means reaching Shizuoka with a direct train to visit Mount Fuji. I aim to achieve this in three days and then relax in Tokyo. The idea seems well thought out, so I opt for it 🙂
Apart from that, today will be a real break in Hiroshima. I want to take a nice pause and enjoy a city I know little about except for its tragic bombings (which is what most visitors come to see). But first, a good breakfast at a friend’s place who makes excellent, silky smooth French toast. A bit of sweetness before seeing the monuments related to the horror the city experienced in 1945.
First, I visit the Genbaku Dome (Atomic Bomb Dome) and its Peace Memorial. I won’t go to the museum as it would be too overwhelming for an event I think I already know enough about. The park for Korean victims is very beautiful. There are several Senbazuru (a thousand cranes), colorful paper creations made of a thousand cranes to be completed within a year. They symbolize peace here, as a girl with leukemia, Sadako Sasaki, attempted to create but sadly passed away before completing it. Her classmates finished her work, and it remains engraved in memory as THE symbol of peace in the city and the country thereafter.
After these emotional moments, I head to Shukkei-en Garden. A true green haven in the middle of the rebuilt city. The explanations show that this garden is designed so that certain mounds resemble mountains, like Mount Fuji for instance. The little bridge in the middle, the mini bamboo forest, the tea house, and the small streams joining the pond are all elements that make this place harmonious. I spend well over an hour here.
To finish my visits for the day, I delve back into the bombings by visiting Fukuromachi School (free entry). The building is less than 1 kilometer from the bomb’s epicenter. It was largely destroyed but was used as a relief post. People wrote messages hoping to find acquaintances, and we see some reconstructed remnants. Doctors had to treat hundreds of people per week, with some traveling immense distances to reach this post. We are told that the school was partially empty at the time of the explosion, as the movement of the population to the countryside, particularly children, was quite frequent to avoid bombings. Thus, many children never found their parents as they were caught in the blast of Little Boy. In our current times of increasingly intense and tense conflicts, it might be wise to put things into perspective and understand the consequences of extreme decisions to resolve them.
A brief scare as I exit the museum: my bike isn’t where I left it… but a gentleman approaches me to say I shouldn’t have left it there. Honestly, parking a bike in a city in Japan isn’t easy sometimes x) He calmly returns it to me, so it’s all good.
A quick call with mom and I head to taste another specialty of Hiroshima Bay, Anago (conger eel, sea eel) at the station. It’s really good, prepared in the same way as unagi with three ways to enjoy it (plain, with seasonings, then with broth). It’s a bit less fatty and thus a bit milder in flavor, but I like both equally.
Time to sleep, see you tomorrow for an island visit 🙂
Day 54 Hiroshima - Miyajima Pause 2
Heading to Miyajima Island at 8:30, first by a small train to reach the port and then taking the ferry for a good 20 minutes. The view of the island is great, and we can see the famous Torii in the water (which isn’t for now due to low tide).
I grab a snack at the nearby konbini and see some shika (deer) that are friendly for once. And my initial plan works, Lorette is here, and we meet up, awesome, I’m very happy :)!
We go straight to the foot of the Torii while it’s reachable. It’s really huge, the bases are literally entire trees, you can see the trunk with only the bark removed, it’s incredible. This vibrant red on the beach, wow.
We then head directly for a hike to climb Mount Misen and its panoramic view of Hiroshima Bay and its surrounding islands.
The Daisho-in Temple on the way is a real gem, with numerous golden Buddhas inside and small stone ones with red hats outside, it’s stunning. Lorette will stay for several weeks there and will be able to enjoy the place again with the autumn-colored momijis (maples), I’m so jealous 😛 I buy some gifts for my cousins’ little ones, hoping they like them 🙂
It takes us about an hour to reach the top and enjoy a meal on a rock while admiring the view. We love it. I thought I could see Shikoku Island (the fourth largest in the country), but it’s too far and cloudy today.
On the descent, we can still enjoy the momijis, which Lorette will appreciate in their full glory in a few days. Back on the coast and in the small town, we grab some Momiji Manju (maple leaf-shaped filled cakes). I get a whole set (red bean, matcha, chocolate, custard, chestnut) that I’ll savor a bit each day. You can see the production in some shops with the machines and workers.
Then comes the highlight: tasting oysters (kaki). I’ve never had them before, and it’s a specialty here. However, they’re cooked in various ways but rarely eaten raw. I get the combo: grilled, fried with panko (fine Japanese breadcrumbs), Kakimeshi (cooked in broth, served on rice), marinated. Lorette gets the gratin version. Honestly, everything is good; I’m surprised. When cooked, they taste like slightly larger mussels. The raw version will be for another time. The place is called Kakiya, which I highly recommend. I had to pay 2600 yen (16-17 euros) for a whole set, which is nothing considering the product and quality.
We watch the sunset on the Torii, which this time is surrounded by the sea, and what a spectacle, it looks like a movie scene. The reflections of the sun on the Seto Inland Sea and the shadows of the coast and island are truly breathtaking. It’s much more enjoyable with fewer people.
We say goodbye to each other with Lorette, who was a fantastic, albeit brief, travel companion. We exchange contacts, and I look forward to following her adventure throughout the year on Instagram. I wish her great discoveries and a wonderful time before diving into adult life. Ciao Garu 😉
I take the ferry again, but I’m exhausted, so I’ll head straight to bed with no energy for other activities besides wandering around the station to get a feel for tomorrow.
My time in Hiroshima and the two previous prefectures has been a breath of fresh air after the city days between Osaka and Kyoto. I have fond memories despite the few challenges that are part of the adventure.
Day 55 Hiroshima to Shizuoka (Shizuoka) (Shinkansen + 18 km)
To start the day under the sign of railway travel, I head to Eki Hiroba, the go-to spot for okonomiyaki near the station, which opens right at 10:00 precisely. Unwittingly, I discover this as I try to take the elevator before it opens… A few of us wait, and when it does open, everyone knowing the timing gets in at once, so I follow the salarymen on their break, haha.
The floor is huge, with at least ten different stalls on the same level. I wonder what sets them apart besides opening and closing times. I choose the most popular one and order a special okonomiyaki (with shrimp, squid, and an added fried egg).
I watch the preparation steps of the Hiroshima Okonomiyaki version :
- First, a thin layer of batter is cooked like a crepe
- Then cabbage and other ingredients are added.
- The noodles, previously boiled, are grilled a bit on one side, the same with the bacon slices
- Then the stack of ingredients is assembled according to the chosen toppings (mine include scallops and an egg).
The chef is really funny, clearly mastering every move, likely after decades of doing this.
Initially, there are only five of us, but within 20 minutes, every seat is occupied. I can’t imagine the chaos during peak lunch hours! The chef lets me add sauce to my liking, not as generously as in Osaka where it was already well-covered. On reflection, I might prefer Osaka’s version, but it’s a close call and I enjoy it nonetheless.
But that’s not all; I have a train to catch. This time, I handle it like a pro, having learned to navigate Japanese rules confidently and prepare accordingly without being a nuisance, of course(cf Prologue Day 0 bis).
I dismantle my bike ahead of time (to avoid attention) with the help of a gentleman. Confidently, I pass through with my slightly oversized luggage (lil bit over 250cm as I did not remove the baggage holder like on the start of my journey), and the attendants let me through a gate for large baggage. Feeling like a boss, I take just 20 minutes instead of the usual 1.5 hours to Tokyo.
I buy the ticket only once everything is settled, avoiding paying for a missed one—good thing too, as I miss the 11:43 train and catch the 12:03 instead. The entire process to the platform goes smoothly, even with an elevator. Finding the right car is always a challenge, so plan for an extra 20-30 minutes post-ticket gate to transport everything alone.
Settled in, it’s off to Nagoya for a quick transfer on the same platform I run fast to get all my stuff out in a blink of an eye. Arriving in Shizuoka, the city closest to Fujisan (not Fujiyama, as a Japanese lesson would clarify the nuance),
I catch a glimpse of the giant volcano as soon as I reassemble my bike. The sight of it teasing between the buildings gives me a new surge of energy, motivating me to get closer tomorrow. I pitch my tent in a park near the beach (I’m not the only one) as there are few other options. It’s not the most pleasant night, but I’m comforted by the thought of more comfortable nights ahead.
Day 56 Shizuoka to Fujiyoshida (Yamanashi) (85 km)
Waking up at dawn, I notice people walking near my tent, which confuses me. Stepping out, I realize it’s early-morning fishermen out before sunrise. Hastening to admire the sunrise with the Izu Peninsula facing the Mount, I witness a true postcard scene. Lost in awe, I delay my departure (85 km). The clear Mount Fuji, without clouds or snow, is already a sight.
The flat start helps me cover distance quickly until I reach Shiraito Falls, a curtain-like waterfall creating rainbow colors in the light. From there, I get another view of the Mount between the trees and rocks, it’s damn beautiful but clouds begin to engulf the summit, worrying me about seeing the big DUDE with the sunset view later on. Still have to keep going.
Famished, I fill up before a prolonged ascent of about 20 km (from sea level to 1000m altitude for the day). By 13:00, I’m still far from Fujiyoshida.
At the summit, visibility is low, and I pass the infamous Aokigahara suicide forest. The dense atmosphere and the hidden paths make it clear why it’s chosen for such a desperate act. Silence adds a terrifying layer, giving me chills.
Following the shores of the two main lakes around the Mount, I enjoy the tranquility of the area, heading quickly to the crowded Chureito Pagoda. This is THE iconic photo of Japan, the pagoda with cherry blossoms framing Mount Fuji (a Google search for “visit Japan” will show this first). The view of the colossal cold magma structure is breathtaking, with the clouds gone (WOUHOU) and a light dusting of snow enhancing its distinctive look. So grateful that I can admire this impressive Dude as a bonus of my trip.
Elated, I continue, as night falls and I still need to check-in. Crossing the serene Fujiyoshida, I reach the hostel. The owner mentions a French cyclist who traversed Japan south to north (more islands and the opposite direction of my trip), making me laugh at our shared craziness. The guy even sent a letter, which is sweet; I should consider doing the same for the memorable people I meet.
I then comfort myself with a meal at Izakaya Sakigake, with its red lights and cozy atmosphere perfect for a romantic dinner. I order various items: a soft, smooth tofu soup, tasty chicken heart yakitori, and flavorful sashimi. The Hirame (flounder), Kanpachi, and mackerel sashimi are incredibly delicious, confirming my love for the Japanese cuisine. A refreshing Umeshu tops it off.
I then set off below the town towards the more nocturnal area of this place that has already captured my heart, hoping to find a Yakitori restaurant. But after 20 minutes of intensive searching, it turns out to be closed especially today.
So I settle on another one that’s just as cute with a young man who’s unstoppable, between serving customers, cocktails and cooking his kebabs over charcoal, the guy’s a real pile of work. I think it’s the Tobari but my mind was racing in my search to be sure. I can feel the alcohols I’ve consumed taking over my mind and giving me a pleasant feeling of floating, the potato shochu and the little Islay Storm whisky accompanying me gently. That didn’t stop me from tasting various original kebabs: liver, beef tongue (succulent), pork intestines and a chicken and shiso combo that will leave a lasting impression on my soul. I want Shiso for myself and to cook with, it seems to be a unique and unbeatable condiment for enhancing the flavour of a product.
My tipsy mood clearly puts me at ease, but I know that I’ve got a great day of sightseeing ahead of me and that I’ll have to get up at the crack of dawn to admire Mount Fuji very early on, so I need to get some rest.
I fall asleep with a smile on both sides of my face 😛
Day 57 Fujiyoshida to Otsuki (25 km)
A tough wake-up at 6:00 to see the morning light on Fujisan, blessed with clear weather!
I quickly visit the famous Torii marking the gateway to the world of the gods, I admire the scenery for quite some time and try to take some pic on the road from my fellow Milé. But it isn’t easy, even so early cars come pretty regularly 😀
Still tired, I nap for another 1-2 hours. Emerging again, Fujisan is shrouded in clouds, affirming my early start was a fantastic idea.
Visiting the renowned Kitaguchi Hongu Fuji Sengen Jinja, the first station for the roughly 10-hour pilgrimage up the Mount (though most start from the fifth station now for approximately 6h of climb), the mystical ambiance is palpable in the pristine forest, greeted by thousand-year-old trees.
Descending, I explore second-hand and textile shops in a town known (or trying to regain its reputation) for high-quality fabric production. Chatting with the owner of Tenjin Factory, I learn they import flax/linen from Europe (mainly Croatia) and handle the rest locally, as Japan rarely produces such agricultural goods. I buy a linen towel as a gift, instantly recognizing its quality.
In the town center, I find a Self Thrift Shop—like some restaurants, you pay and select items based on their price tag on a machine and can leave like that without a seller.
I try Yoshida Udon at the station for just 700 yen (less than 5 euros), filling me up. I end my culinary journey at Gekko Café, where a sweet waitress serves me a pumpkin cheesecake and an iced café au lait (or Café Oré in Japanese). Buying a gift to take home, she offers some small cakes and even gives me a hug—thrilled, I thank her warmly.
Before leaving this personal haven, I quickly visit the horse temple to pick up a final gift for my cousin’s baby. With the sun setting, I only reach Otsuki, needing a long ride to Tokyo tomorrow. Given the approaching Halloween, prices and availability in Tokyo are crazy, so I must decide wisely tomorrow. Though I hoped not to pitch my tent again, it’s my last night doing so in a pleasant park.
Day 58 Otsuki to Tokyo (Tokyo) End bicycle
Surprise in the morning—a young guy has pitched his tent nearby and is also on a bike journey. These improbable encounters are amazing. We take a photo, share stories, and soon return to our respective journeys (he to Yokohama, me to Tokyo, both with just one day left).
Mostly descending and flattening towards sea level, I face a couple of climbs that exhaust me. My body demands a complete stop to intensive cycling. With crazy prices in Tokyo, I check Booking at each break for a more acceptable deal. Finally, I snag a funky hostel for 45 euros, better than others at 80 or more, which is madness for a dorm bed.
Passing Saruhashi Bridge, I quickly reach Greater Tokyo’s outskirts.
An endless 40 km to the city center and my hostel, with varying traffic, signals, and falling darkness, all conspire to drain me. Can’t wait to leave a bit the bike and take chill strolls and visits.
Eager to rest, I arrive at 19:00 thoroughly exhausted. I go out to see the Tokyo Sky Tree at night and eat black ramen (not great, it tastes burnt), then go straight to bed.
I’ll start enjoying Tokyo from tomorrow. I begin planning things to see/do before heading home, but it’s complicated with nearly 70 points of interest. If I can narrow it down to 40, that’d be good.
Still focused on exploring and planning, I haven’t yet realized my bike trip is truly over. I think the very last two days before departure, with time to reflect, will be pivotal in appreciating the journey.
In any case, I’m glad I visited the Mount Fuji region before ending with life in the metropolis.
See you in the next and final episode full of Tokyo vibe contemplation and preparation for my return to France.
