Table of Contents
Day 22 Virpazar to around Ostrog (70 km)
Late departure at noon, Rémi left earlier for his other goals on the East of the country, we will meet later further North. The old man gives me a huge bunch of grapes for the road, I’m replenished with vitamins. Thank you, Frenchyyy (the word he used every third sentence with us).
The lake is very beautiful and peaceful in itself, but the traffic is terrible with many reckless drivers. The drivers overtake me even closer than in Croatia, sometimes brushing me, which is quite unpleasant and dangerous. The northern part of the lake might have offered a better view and safer way. My top fright of the day: a reckless driver coming at 100 km/h to overtake the traffic jam on the other lane, heading straight towards me without braking and barely swerving, I had a close call and need to mentally process what could have happened if I had failed to avoid him. From the lake, I can spot Albania in the distance all along. That’s a very beautiful sightseeing along the road.
I then arrive in Podgorica where I get some tape to see if I can salvage my bags the way I can. The city has nothing special, it’s a young capital that doesn’t seem to have much history. Just a relaxing park and a huge freshly new Orthodox church on a vacant lot (funded by the Serbs and Russia, long live external influences in Montenegro). I would recommend the restaurant Pod Volat for its low prices tho.
I quickly head towards Ostrog. On the way, I meet a funny shepherd who chats with me in Montenegrin even though I don’t understand anything 😀 Riding a bit at night, I find myself a spot off the road. The next 2 days will be quite tough to reach Durmitor Park (my second big objective of the trip after Kotor), less distance but much more climbing.
Day 23 Ostrog to between Nikšić and Durmitor (60 km)
Departure at 10:50 : I put tape on the bags, praying it holds. I’m also making a new friend, Miss Praying Mantis.
I reach Ostrog around 13:00 and what a struggle. The climb in the infernal switchbacks stings. At least 10 in a row for 250m of elevation gain in less than 2km. Reaching this famous monastery by the sweat of my brow (but mainly my legs), I hope God will reward me well. The frescoes are sumptuous, even on the stone walls, the troglodyte monument was worth it. However, the Orthodox really kiss everything 😀 , even the stele with an icon on the ground.
I admire the view and enjoy my accomplishment of the day.
Now I head to Nikšić where I get some tortillas and a refreshing cocktail at Piazza. I climb the peak of the day and reach 1500m altitude, which could be my maximum by bike on the entire trip. This height offers me beautiful views of the Montenegrin countryside, their farmer houses, mini tractors, and pastures surrounded by bright green forests, so to speak. You can feel quite free and alone in this sparsely populated land. A search for a roadside camping spot and a rest before the last day to reach THE famous Durmitor.
Day 24 Near Durmitor to Durmitor (59 km)
Departure at 10:00 for the Famous Durmitor, I sincerely can’t wait. 5 hours of determined pedaling to reach the goal. The weather may announce bad conditions, but I want to believe in my star. I meet 2 French and 1 Czech travelers on motorcycles. They changed their plan to cross the Silk Road, again due to Covid. Indeed, everyone has to rethink their travel routes with this nuisance. Later, I see a bullet-riddled sign, it’s a good omen ehehe, people have fun in the remote villages here. I see huts, hay tipis, quite original. My thighs start to grimace, I’m eager to rest them, but there’s one last stretch which I manage with some pain.
Arriving in Žabljak, we celebrate our final reunion with Rémi in our guest room at 10€ a night for 2, with a baby Labrador as a bonus host, what luck. We quickly head to Crno Jezero (Black Lake) before nightfall with many things closed (Sunday + presidential election day, bad combo). Therefore we head for a good sleep.
Day 25 Durmitor "Pause" 1
We set off on a beautiful 12 km expedition on foot with 1300m of elevation gain. Rest will not be for today.
But first, let’s enjoy a great breakfast at a local Pekara (the name of the bakery but which also just means bakery in the Balkans): a good meat Burek and a cheese one, a Kroasan (LOL the Croissant written in Slavic) and a kind of small bread filled with cherry jam, quite hearty to give us strength.
The weather is perfect (contrary to forecasts), Bobotov Kuk (2 523m, summit of the dinaric Alps) here we come. 5 hours of hiking under the scorching sun with just enough water to reach the end. The succession of sublime landscapes is perfect, we never tire of these rocky views of the karstic mountains typical of the Balkans.
We also meet the local phenomenon, an old man with one tooth who sells beer as a refreshment in his hut in the middle of nowhere. We still don’t understand their language, it’s a shame. Our legs suffer a bit, but Rémi’s crazy stories as a teacher in Guyana, the jokes, and the day’s nonsense keep me going and make me forget my pain.
The summit is insane, and I could contemplate the view for hours if nightfall didn’t threaten us … We catch a glimpse of Bosnia and Serbia, it gives us chills. We write our names at the summit before descending where we encounter chamois in the distance (thanks to Rémi for the beautiful objective with quality photos from afar, mine is catastrophic). The little one frolics everywhere with his mom and does somersaults worthy of an acrobat in the wild, a unique and unforgettable experience. We arrive in the dark on a road with no real public transport to bring us back, but Rémi’s bravery and hitchhiking experience save us when we ask a couple, Olga and Georges, to take us back to Žabljak, what luck to find them! They also give us :
- tourist advice for skiing in the region during winter.
- culinary recommendations for the city’s restaurants offering the mountain specialties of Montenegro, Kačamak at Podgora. The recommendation was excellent, we are happy and stuffed like pigs.
Time to sleep from this exceptional day.
(I can’t bring myself to select the photos more drastically, so this will be a big carousel to view below)
Day 26 Durmitor Pause 2
Up at 9:30 : Another little trip to the Pekara planned, we enjoy the delights of the Balkans as much as we can haha. We added Baklavas and an apple cake this time. A little laundry to refresh the well-worn clothes and off to the famous canyon on the Tara and the Đurđevića bridge. I visit with Rémi x2, yes, we met another Frenchman also named Rémi on the bus. He’s from Lille and was in Greece with his parents then decided to go through Albania, Montenegro, and Bosnia solo to get home. With a friend, he cycled 3500 km from France to Sweden and Norway in a month and a half. That’s some performance (but almost all flat unlike me, I have an excuse for covering less distance). In engineering school too, he’s also questioning his future.
His other adventures are just as thrilling, the humanitarian project in Asia fell through due to Covid, he spent 3 years in Cameroon, but mostly did other (also cycling) trips with friends. He even managed to end up couchsurfing with very sketchy hosts who had visitors during their (short but lively) night in Gothenburg, travels do lead to improbable situations clearly.
Anyway, it’s a very nice afternoon doing nothing and just eating and chatting without worrying about planning, allowing me to rest my mind which needed it.
Outing of the Day with Rémi x2
On the way back to Žabljak (Jabliak in English), we each have a beer at the Black Lake before Rémi II goes camping and tries Bobotov Kuk tomorrow. Rémi the First and I head to our last meal together (tomorrow he goes to Albania, and I to Serbia, the chance to cross paths again on our respective trips seems compromised). The little Ćevapi and a beautiful yogurt tart comfort us, the waiter is very chatty with the help of his translator, it’s quite funny. He thinks we are a gay couple, we’re dying of laughter. The restaurant Krcma Nostalgija seems to match the evening’s situation, especially with the bonus Rakija (Balkan schnapps) offered by the house.
Thus, we head to our last night in our shared room and a well deserved rest.
Day 27 Durmitor to Serbian Border (70 km)
Departure at 10:30 : so Rémi can catch his bus.
It’s a beautiful goodbye (very harsh but for the best of our respective trips). Rémi, you’re really a great guy, these days interspersed with solitude were awesome and perfect for our travel style. I learned a lot with great memories to keep and wonderful moments to share. We each return to our solo travel lives and immerse ourselves in 100% English speaking again.
Returning to our room, I finish planning my route. Serbia or Biogradska Gora? I opt for Serbia directly, which is a day’s bike ride away. Finally, departure is delayed to 12:30 due to the Montenegrin hosts’ antics. The father and grandfather offer me homemade Rakija shots. I end up with 3 down my throat almost completing the sign of the cross. And yes, we communicate through signs and photos. All this combined with fried bread and venison ham (the combo is excellent but very heavy and gamey). For the record, the communication to understand that the deer had been hunted by the father was hilarious. Him showing me photos of the beast on his phone, then pointing at himself and miming the final rifle shot was memorable. I save some for the next day as the grandmother gives me leftovers. Everyone is very kind, the whole family is there and even the neighbors come. Sunday for an aperitif must be something here. Their little Labrador was really excited and too cute. Here we all toast together saying ŽIVELI (cheers in Montenegrin/Serbian)!
Time to say goodbye and finally start my departure… The alcohol hits but I manage to continue (zigzagging/tottering) towards Serbia. In the end, I pass by the same bridge as yesterday then arrive in Pljevlja. I have a super good Turkish coffee (Note to myself, being a non coffee drinking person, it drastically increases my beats per minute and burns very quickly my energy). I see the first mosques of my life. It seems that the northern and eastern extremities of the country are very Muslim due to the Bosnian and Albanian borders. I pass by a mega coal plant and a stone quarry. The less sexy side of a country that has to find its economic / industrial place. I reach the border and pass it without any problem, always with just an ID card. I don’t want to go much further as night falls, so I do 1-2 km and find a nice hidden spot to set up the tent (to be continued for tomorrow for this mistake) .
Day 28 Serbian border to Uvac (RS) (60 km)
Departure at 11:20 : Scare before departure, I get out of the tent to dismantle it and want to take a nice solo photo (like Peter Sagan Tour de France 2020 in a green jersey), problem, the Border police pass by in a 4×4. I spend a good half hour waiting for them to call the border to find out when I passed, it was yesterday and they wonder where I could have slept and if I’m carrying anything suspicious. Well, finally they leave me alone but I was really scared. Lesson to be learned, don’t lie but especially don’t sleep near certain still questionable borders.
I leave as quickly as I can to leave this border and enter this country that intrigues and questions me a lot about whether I’m safe or not. I ride well and arrive in Nova Varoš. I meet a cute little kitten that I name Patrick and give him small pieces of ham. Fortunately, an old man comes to get him, otherwise, he wouldn’t have left me and I would have felt sad. I get a small cappuccino with a cheesecake for 260 dinars (around 2€) I’m fully replenished.
I arrive at this artificial river, Uvac, and struggle to find an adequate camping spot. Everything is slightly steep and I don’t want to play with fire with all the previous warnings about Serbia, so I want to stay well hidden.
At nightfall, after a good dinner, an unlikely duo arrives: a mother and a baby dog who seem lost and maybe abandoned beg from me. The mother has visible ribs, so I guess they don’t eat much or regularly. I hesitate a lot to give them food (I don’t have much left in a remote part of the country and I worry about their future behavior if I do), but never mind, I decide to be charitable. I give in and name them Emilie and Hector. They will sleep next to my tent. I try to make them a shelter with the help of a tree and a poncho as it starts to rain. After the evening’s tuna, what could I give them tomorrow morning… Answer next week.
