September 1st 2023 :
After a timid start to my Japanese adventures, I’m finally going to get the ball rolling and launch the Japan 2023 project: crossing Honshu (Aomori to Hiroshima). On landing in Aomori, I find a small camping spot on the edge of a rice paddy for the night… My adventures in Japan quickly took a turn for the better from day one.
Here’s my story from Aomori, Akita then Iwate:
Table of Contents
Day 1 Aomori to Hirosaki (Aomori) (110 km)
The real adventures can now begin. I aim to start early and end up leaving even earlier than planned because a farmer wanting to clean the edges of the rice field chases me away, and you can see in his eyes that my presence is clearly unexpected. I ask him for 30 more minutes to pack up, but what a fright to hear the little country car stop right next to my tent at 4 in the morning x).
With my sleep broken, I reluctantly start on a route that should be short to reach a shrine known for its path of Tori (famous red gates in the Shinto religion).
However, I have to take a detour because the road is closed, and of course, Komoot isn’t aware… but Google Maps shows me a path further north, let’s go! An extra 30 km on the first day already, my mental strength is challenged right from the start after the misadventures of transporting the bike by train. I also feel that my lighter preparation compared to the first trip is noticeable. Every climb is a challenge, I’m lucky that my first days are quite flat.
I arrive at the Takayama Inari Jinja (shrine), and what a reward, a real beauty with no more than 10 people in the entire complex. I even partially witness a prayer. -> Funny anecdote, I know very little about local customs at the beginning of this adventure. To enter the shrine, I see that shoes are placed on the sides, so I decide to do the same and also see a pair of wooden shoes that I think must be worn to enter the sacred place, but not at all. I just borrowed the shoes of one of the priests for the prayer hahahahaha. So, I quickly run to the entrance to take off the shoes and watch the last minutes of the session incognito. Cultural mistakes will surely haunt me during this trip. I feel very stupid at the moment but at least I laugh well on my own.
I then head to Hirosaki, 50 km away, and on the way I stop at a charming little restaurant with an adorable waitress (I feel that the service will always be super friendly and endearing in restaurants). A small Katsu Kare (curry on rice with breaded pork) for 6 euros and delicious for my palate. Oishii desu (it’s very good!).
This day couldn’t be exhausting enough without adding a touch of rain. Some gusts catch me off guard but I try to avoid the cloud with my super speed (partially succeeding). I also want to taste an apple knowing that the Aomori prefecture, being very rural, is also known for its apples (the number one producer in the country). I “steal” one that has fallen from an apple tree, I confirm it’s very good and the size is gigantic, it takes me a good 10 minutes to consume it. I see apple trees all along my way to the hostel of Hirosaki.
I quickly enjoy some sashimi (raw slices usually of fish but also meat or other) in a cute little Izakaya (Asobi). I notice that my somewhat lost Western face makes an impression, people ask me quickly some question.
Having received advice from a Japanese person (Yuki) through a Slovak friend, I go to the bar located just behind and meet a wonderful woman/manager. I chat with the group as best as I can, a mix of English, Japanese, and Google Translate, until she understands that I’m here thanks to one of her acquaintances.
The situation is funny and that’s how she contacts another mutual acquaintance who happens to be out with French language teachers (including one who is indeed French). I even end up on the phone with this Frenchman and I’m completely lost not understanding what’s happening.
When the group joins, the atmosphere is great and we have a super interesting exchange about Japan and the life of French teachers. I meet Eiji, the acquaintance of the owner, Shinnosuke and Hiro, Japanese French teachers, and Ghislain, the literal French French teacher 😀
Ghislain explains more about his life in Japan for over 12 years, his presence in Kyoto, his linguistic trips, his role as an interpreter for the French volleyball team during the Tokyo Olympics, and his appearances on national TV. Cocorico, that’s representing the French flag, I’m really proud of him. He also gives me some tips in case I ever consider living in Japan, I will seriously think about it.
After several highball (pretty basic whisky based cocktail with some sparkling water and ice cubes) and a great coffee cocktail (I would love to find the recipe), the night ends at 2:00 in the night so I can rest a bit from this very eventful first cycling day.
This sign of destiny and these encounters on my first evening really warm my heart. I also regain confidence to try dialogues with the Japanese even with my rather limited level.
Day 2 Hirosaki to Odate (Akita) (67 km)
I set off at 11:00 for the Japan geek I am with the highlight of the trip: Inakadate, famous for its rice paddy art, known as Tambo Art. The site has two different stations: one showcasing historical artworks like Vermeer’s Girl with a Pearl Earring and another featuring Luffy from One Piece (for those who follow, it was around the time Gear 5 was introduced in the manga). Most of the rice varieties used (especially the colorful ones) are purely ornamental with no nutritional value. The fascinating aspect of this Land Art style is how the designs change with the growing season of the rice, making it worth visiting 2-3 times a year to see the different colors before harvesting.
Inakadate and its rice paddies
Time flies, and I must continue my journey. I make a quick stop in Owani, where I stumble upon a charming German-style house named Schwarzwald (after the German mountain range close to my region). The couple there warmly welcomes me and lets me taste their delightful assortment of desserts. It’s delicious and comforting, as always since I arrived here. It was truly hartzig (adorable), as we say in Alsatian.
After that, I leave Aomori Prefecture to enter Akita Prefecture (like the famous dog breed).
The terrain immediately becomes more hilly and somewhat mountainous, and it will likely become more challenging as I head further south. The rice paddies are ubiquitous, confirming that the Japanese consume a lot of rice. As night falls with a light drizzle, I stop at Murasaki, the second restaurant recommendation from my guide Yuki. They serve Kiritanpo, a regional specialty—a kind of broth with local ingredients, chicken, and rice skewers formed on wooden sticks and cooked to retain their elongated shape. Mamma mia what a delight! The condiments add just the right amount of umami, making the dish harmonious, comforting, and delicious. The waitress even offers me a small glass of plum juice (non-alcoholic, I promise). It’s very sweet but also good. When I pay, I receive a gesture that nearly brings me to tears: an origami crane (a highly respected bird in Japan) made from beautiful paper. I’ll take great care of it <3 !
By leaving, I find a spot to pitch my tent by the water, hoping no one evicts me this time.
Day 3 Odate to Kakunodate (116 km)
I start early and quickly reach Kita Akita (North Akita) in the morning, where I meet a Japanese singer named Toshi at some local event, he gives me his promotional flyer. It’s the entertainment at the local onsen, which I find amusing.
For lunch, I try Oyakodon (meaning parent and child because it consists of chicken and egg). It’s very good, cheap, and fills me up with energy.
I face my first real cycling challenges with some quite frightening uphill tunnels, especially when a truck approaches, creating a ghostly noise.
I arrive in Kakunodate, my first real samurai village, which I will explore tomorrow morning. As the night falls (very early in Japan, around 18:00 even in summer), I once again camp by a river. My technique for finding a safe spot where few people can see me is using Google Maps with the satellite option to inspect the surroundings and check if the path is accessible by bike. So far, it works well. A quick call with my parents to assure them I’m okay and then off to bed.
Day 4 Kakunodate to Senboku (Camping) (42 km)
I initially planned to head towards an onsen village (Nyuto Onsen, known for its hot spring baths), but I decide to postpone it to a more convenient stop as the elevation is too challenging for my current level.
Instead, I aim for Lake Tazawako and the town of Senboku.
My technique for charging my phone without making too many stops at restaurants or inns is using the konbini (always so practical those convenience stores). You just need to hide a bit to plug in, hoping to find an outlet in the restroom or sometimes a real spot for a break that offers an outlet. It can be helpful when running low on power.
Kakunodate, an ancient samurai town, offers a serene calm despite a life punctuated by its festivals. In a few days’ time, an event is being prepared (I can see people getting organised and hurrying around some of the festival structures), but the town is best known for its famous cherry blossom festival, which transforms the streets into a brilliant pink tableau every spring.
Exploring one of the lordly residences, I learn about the intricacies of the architecture, the clan hierarchy and daily life at the time. Several of these houses are open to visitors, and I strongly recommend that you discover at least one of them. They allow you to go beyond the pop culture image of the samurai and delve into a rich, authentic history that is far more impressive in person.
I then aim for Kinpo Jinja, a really remote shrine on the North of the town. Moss and nature partially reclaim the place, making it mystically silent, except for the idling cars (letting the engine run without moving). Despite that, I thoroughly enjoy the solitary, mystical experience. The dominating cedars are large and seem centuries old.
I then gradually approach the lake to savor my favorite industrial ice cream of the trip (a waffle encasing ice cream and a chocolate strip, yummy, industrial but excellent).
The day is further brightened by two encounters :
- The first is with a British man named Eon at the lake spot with the torii and its view of the surrounding hills. He gives me some tips and mentions his Japanese wife visiting her family. But now, he’s enjoying solo trips in the north for his pleasure. He buys me another ice cream, this time artisanal, as we chat and wait for the rain to pass.
- The second encounter is with an improbable duo: an Austrian cyclist and an old Japanese man also cycling. Stefan, the Austrian, signals me to stop and chat, then we practice our limited Japanese with Mr. Otaka. Stefan explains he’s doing relatively short trips (20-60 km/day max) to enjoy and not overexert himself. He’s aiming for Hokkaido, heading in the opposite direction. Otaka plans to cycle through three prefectures around Akita, where he’s from. The most impressive aspect is that he’s no taller than 1.65m, very thin, and carries over 50 kilos of gear—a true packhorse! We try lifting his bike but almost can’t. Ours weigh 30-35 kg max in total.
After some photos, we part ways, each heading in different directions.
I book a night at a campsite for less than 10 euros. The area is nice, and I can even take a dip in the lake to relax despite the less-than-ideal weather of recent days.
Day 5 Senboku to Morioka (Iwate) (51 km)
No time to waste, I take the very challenging route to Morioka (the only possible road) with many tunnels, including one 2.5 km long.
The thought of crossing it is daunting, so I ride on the pseudo-sidewalk of the tunnel, but in reality, it feels more dangerous off the road with the risk of losing balance due to its narrow and worn condition. I exit as quickly as possible, only to get drenched in a downpour, prompting me to seek a break.
I reach Morioka and see middle schoolers having their afternoon sports and music sessions, reminding me about high school scenes in manga. It’s an atmosphere I can relate to, which is amusing.
I stay in one of the city’s few cheap hostels (the rest are expensive), which doesn’t look great, and the reviews on Booking aren’t encouraging either. I quickly realize why. Trying to wash my clothes in the sink, I dismantle it, because it was poorly fixed with just two screws in the wooden wall. I try to repair it as best as I can, but without success; it’s very low-quality. I’ll leave 1000 yen tomorrow and write to the girl who welcomed me.
I wander around the city, which, apart from its small “red-light” district with brazen touts, isn’t particularly special. I visit the last recommendation from Yuki: Mine, a sake bar. It’s great; I chat with the owner, Yamamoto-san, 51 years old (who doesn’t look like it), and a young guy tasting sake and producing his own (Sake Tea). I eat pasta with cherry tomatoes and baby fish, a curious dish. My initial idea in Morioka was to try the Wanko Soba challenge (eating as many bowls of soba noodles as possible) alone. Yamamoto tells me it’s best with at least two people for fun. Fortunately, Sake Tea has never done it, so we plan to go tomorrow noon. I hope to reach the 100-bowl mark for a small diploma of accomplishment. Yama-san says he ate 240 bowls by himself! Quite a man indeed. I quickly taste the tea-flavored sake from my new travel buddy and head back to my super hostel for a good night’s sleep.
Day 6 Morioka to Kitakami (40 km)
My morning starts with unexpected stress. I try exchanging money, but the banks don’t often provide this service for Euros in small cities.
Returning to the hostel to pack up, I realize I’ve lost a screw from the front rack during my ride… Unable to move, I retrace my path hoping to find it, but it’s hopeless. Finally, a brilliant idea strikes: find a bike shop, which solves the problem in under three minutes for 2 euros. I owe them big time and will be more careful with my equipment from now on!
I rush to meet my companion from the previous day for the soba challenge at Azumaya, a restaurant known for this feat. Bowls are served in sets of 10 per person, and we eat as much as we want for a fixed price (around 20-25 euros). The competition is fierce, but I win with 115 bowls against 108 for my Japanese friend.
The experience is worth doing once, preferably with someone, but not more than that (else than if you like to feed yourself massively with buckwheat noodles). We enjoy the moment and other condiments while sitting on the floor (still getting used to that with my legendary (non)flexibility). We receive our wooden certificates as proof of our achievement and say our goodbyes.
Before leaving Morioka, I visit my first tea house, Nanshoso. It’s truly sublime with a beautiful and peaceful garden that can be enjoyed in any season, offering various aspects of its elements. I savor my Matcha (a very thick, almost milky and bitter green tea) and its wagashi (the sweet complement) for a perfectly balanced taste experience.
I then start my departure late after all these day’s adventures and try to go as far as possible.
Nevertheless, I manage to find a nice camping spot to rest. The next day will be great for visiting different Buddhist complexes in the region.
A little anecdote: since the first day, I haven’t had any lights because the initial experiences of assembling and disassembling from leaving the Shinkansen in Aomori made my dynamo/light connection non-functional.
I still manage to find a nice camping spot to recuperate. The next day is going to be fun, with visits to various Buddhist complexes in the region.
Day 7 Kitakami to Hanayama Lake (86 km)
My body is telling me that a break should be planned. However, I think I’ll continue for the next few days until the Sendai stage, which is still out of reach.
I head directly to Hiraizumi. It’s the first major Buddhist complex in Japan since I left the North. The North is less populated, so the Buddhist expansion that reached Nara first (in the South) didn’t spread as much compared to the rest of the country (closer to China and Korea).
A brief aside to clarify the country's religious situation
Japan is mainly associated with two religions.
The oldest, animist and polytheistic, is Shinto. The gods can manifest through any entity, living being, or matter around you.
The second, more conventional, arrived in the Land of the Rising Sun a little later (5th-6th century AD), it is Buddhism.
You can therefore encounter both Shinto shrines and Buddhist temples on a trip to Japan, even next to each other which is normal. What’s most surprising is that the Japanese rarely affiliate with just one of the two (except for clerical people, like Buddhist monks or Shinto priests, for example). The Japanese generally celebrate and respect the customs of both belief systems and do not question so much the legitimacy of one over the other. Following the precepts of both is the norm 🙂 It’s quite unique to discover for the first time.
The various Buddhist sites in and around Hiraizumi are very impressive.
- Chuson-ji, a huge complex with several buildings, reveals its Konjiki-dō (the golden hall) with a magnificent gold structure, symbolizing the tomb of the Buddhist founders in the region. A wooden structure outside provided its initial protection, allowing this treasure to survive intact through the centuries.
There’s also a museum showcasing superb relics like Buddhist Sutras painted in gold on a blue background. The contrast is striking and I love it! (But the pictures were forbidden, sadly 🙁 )
Various buildings in the Chuson-Ji complex
- Motsu-ji, characterized by its peaceful gardens. A bit less interesting than the previous one, but still worth it. Especially on a specific day of the year when poets gather to read writings along the garden’s river. The garden (like most Japanese gardens) is a sort of miniaturized depiction of some larger nature landscapes, with small streams representing rivers and small rocks representing boulders or cliffs.
- Takkoku no Iwaya with its Bishamondo to complete this trio. One of the two main vermilion-red buildings built and carved into the rock stands in front of me. A true beauty. There’s also a smaller garden, and the visit indicates that by the time Buddhism spread to the North, the ancient rules of Japanese gardens were already established.
With all these visits, I fill my stomach with my first non-gluttonous soba (see Day 6 Morioka), hoping to savor many more in the future. This dish is Kuretsubo Soba with a strange radish grown in the region. It’s finely grated like wasabi and should be mixed into the soy sauce as a condiment. Of course, I only realized this at the end when I finished and took the time to watch other customers. Oops, does not matter, it was still delicious.
I then head to my camping spot for the night, found on a site listing good spots across the country. On the way, I meet a young bike traveler (in his twenties) going in the opposite direction. We quickly exchange a photo and then continue our journeys, me aiming for the South, him wanting to cover distances (over 100 km per day) to reach the northern tip of the country by crossing the island of Hokkaido. Quite a character! I will follow his journey on Instagram.
Komoot, my great friend, of course, takes me through terrible paths in the local wilderness, and I even have to push the bike because it’s so tough, which makes me lose time. Thus, I arrive at the campsite in the middle of the night, found with the help of a map plotting all the campsites (free or not) available on the peninsula (feel free to reach out via DM for further info).
Nevertheless, my evening is going to be more (pleasantly) eventful than expected. I meet a girl to ask if I can set up my tent at the campsite despite its supposed closure. I thought she was part of the staff, but in the end, everything is empty, and she is a bit drunk, probably one of the only customers at the campsite.
I go to set up my bike and tent, and then I see several tents organized in a group. A girl from the group comes to see me and offers to stay with them. I obviously say YES! They are really nice (and tipsy, haha) with me. I taste their grilled beef tongue (they come from Sendai, where it is a specialty, and I will try it again when I pass through). I even see Japanese Kiri cheese, which makes me laugh (French basic industrial fresh cheese).
The group is a quintet: Hitomi, Maegu, Naomi, Shin, and JB (I don’t know his real name), two married couples and a single florist, all around 40 years old. I knew that the Japanese liked camping with really big equipment, and here I have living proof, it’s not rustic at all, their gear is impeccable and big. I love it, total opposite of my low-cost setup.
I get a few drinks with them, talk about all kinds of topics, have a good time, which helps me relax and de-stress for the next few days, and I enjoy myself. They also give me a dragonfly pin, which is very touching, and I will take great care of it. I practice my Japanese again, and then fatigue takes over, and my mattress awaits me for a rest after this very busy day.
See you in the next part for more adventures in Northern Japan.
