After many weeks in the mountains, surrounded by nature and villages, it’s time to return to civilisation and the Japanese megalopolises, while taking a break with the bike and leaving it in Kyoto.
Time for me to discover the intriguing city of Osaka, as well as Nara. I’ve heard so much about how unusual Osaka is compared to other cities that I’m really curious and eager to discover it in detail. Follow me to find out more about this unique city.
Table of Contents
Day 37 Moriyama to (Kyoto) Osaka (32 km)
I head to see the last town on the shore of the giant lake Biwa : Otsu.
Initially not very popular, there are still a few things to see. A pretty temple Ōmi-jingū with lots of little children dressed for the occasion, colorful kimonos for the girls, suits for the boys, likely celebrating a particular event, looking like a sort of small communion for the very young.
I then visit a store representing Otsu-e, the art of Otsu. Once small caricatures/satires or folk art that some travelers and pilgrims bought from merchants on their way. I even buy a few postcards to send to my family.
I also see people preparing for a festival. Another one I’m going to miss by a whisker because of the dates.
I then head towards Kyoto, but first, a second stop of the trip for some unagi, which is popular here; you have to queue. I have a room closed off by a sliding door all to myself, with a pretty nice decor on the outside. The tableware is very presentable, even the chopstick holder looks like an eel, which is funny.
Well, I finally arrive in Kyoto and understand that my idea from the previous day was the right one: The police were taking away an illegally parked bike, it seems to be a real problem in Kyoto, better to leave my bike at the official parking and pay a few yen per day leaving my panniers there. It’s cheaper than putting my panniers in baggage storage. I trust Japanese people to not touch my apparel in a public space, maybe too much.
The train station is very special, very modern, contrasting with the rest of the city, which is very traditional and viewed as the imperial city. I will explore this city later on, now time to head to Osaka.
The train ride between Osaka and Kyoto is incredible, 30 minutes, and you’re there for even less than 5 euros. My hostel being a bit out of the city center, I take my time passing through and settling in. I understand why it was cheap. The “beds” / mattresses are separated between girls and boys with a simple fabric screen. I laugh so hard, but it will do for one night. I will take something else starting tomorrow.
I wander aimlessly, a bit tired, thinking I should head back. But I make one last stop at the Albero bar. And what a surprise. When I open the doors, the local Japanese are so happy and didn’t expect a Gaijin (foreigner) to enter this den that feels like a “trap”.
Well, it turns out to be so, as I stay for 3 hours chatting with very funny and very drunk people. The waiter even buys me drinks when I notice he has French alcohols like pastis. He also teaches me the insult (which I wouldn’t use outside this bar to avoid problems): “Korosu Zo”.
I also discover the crazy Osaka sign: the “bang” with a gun (shaped with your hands) pointing to the head. You immediately sense you’re dealing with different creatures in this city compared to the rest of the country. Most have passed their 30s, but a young woman, Konami, talks to me about her friend Fumi, who makes videos in English with foreigners traveling in Japan. He joins us and explains his project. We agree that I will do a trial with him in the coming days. He also serves as a translator to facilitate conversation with my companions for the evening.
I don’t regret this unexpected stop without a real plan. I return late, with a peaceful mind and convinced that Osaka will please me throughout my stay, looking forward to the coming days and encounters.
Day 38 Osaka Pause 1
My second day in this unique city.
I go to visit the surroundings of the castle (without visiting it because of a 1-hour queue for yet another castle). The garden around it, the fortress, and the statue of Toyotomi Hideyoshi (one of the three founders of the unified Japan era already mentioned) are nice to see. Hideyoshi is important to the city because he gave it great significance by building the castle and other power (reconstructed several times following destructions in history).
I then walk through the longest Shotengai in Japan: Tenjinbashisuji. 2.6 kilometers of pure gustatory, clothing, and other pleasures. It feels like this shopping street never ends with the crowd and the covered alley that seems endless. I have my first Takoyaki (one of the city’s specialties), which are delicious. I also admire the cook’s dexterity in twirling these little balls of dough enclosing a tender piece of octopus. These balls are usually served with some seaweed, bonito flakes, takoyaki sauce + mayonnaise. It’s filling, but it’s super good and very fresh and hot. With the gray weather, it’s heartwarming.
After this culinar delicacy, I pass through the more business and wealthy area of the city. The towers are gigantic, and luxury stores parade. The contrast is striking with the rest of the city, which is a bit more mixed with the old or a bit shabby. The Umeda tower is curious with its atypical shape; the view must be nice, but I decide to skip it as I will do another skyscraper later when the weather is better.
Later I cross a bridge with a somewhat bleak atmosphere and the train crossing it to reach a popular district: Juso. I taste the famous okonomiyaki (another specialty of Osaka). There are several types of Okonomiyaki, but the two most known are:
- Osaka style where most of the ingredients are mixed into a pancake-like batter and cooked on a giant plate, the teppan.
- Hiroshima style, which I will discover later, with the ingredients cooked in different layers and noodles added to the dish.
Here, it’s Osaka style, and they don’t let me take too many photos, although I manage to snap one. It’s excellent and very fun to sit around the cook and eat directly off the teppan. I had already tried a recipe, but it was very bad; I will try again when I’m home (and here is the recipe done when I came back).
I return to properly settle into my hostel for the next two days. Except the short break initially planned extends, and I am too lazy to go far.
So I just quickly grab food in a sort of jazzy Izakaya with my new friend, a former sumo (@krazykimu5go on Instagram). We communicate through a translator, but the exchange is very funny about my passion for American football and travel and his past as a sumo and his love for eclectic music. Another proof that people from Osaka really break the mold, even an ex-sumo (a very traditional profession with many rituals) can end up running an underground music bar and want to go out to reggae clubs, haha. He recommends his very good spicy chicken, and we exchange contacts. He is one of the first “giants” I meet in Japan. I think a big guy has only two options in his youth in Japan: either he becomes a geek/otaku and stays at home, or he ends up a rikishi (sumo wrestler). Even if they offer me the chance to go out, I feel the fatigue overtaking me, so I have to decline reluctantly.
Time to rest, as an Osaka warrior.
Day 39 Osaka Pause 2
Two consecutive days of rest is that possible ? What a pleasure! Even though I still feel tired…
After visiting the northern part of the city yesterday, I head west into the bay today. There’s a Ferris wheel and an aquarium over there. The weather isn’t much better than yesterday, but the Ferris wheel ride is still worth it. It takes a good 10 minutes to admire the bay, Universal Studios park, the inland sea, downtown skyscrapers, and the small mountains to the east and south. A beautiful little panorama to understand how this sprawling city is organized. My ticket was even discounted thanks to my one-day pass for the Osaka metro. A nice little tip when you know what’s covered by the discount and if you’re going to take the metro three or four times in a day.
I then go to get a ticket for the Aquarium… a 3-hour wait for the next slot, I should have checked the ticket here first and then done the wheel, oh well. I walk around the area even though it’s not the sexiest part of town. I go see the giant red bridge nearby and pass by the Glion museum with its beautiful vintage cars.
Finally comes the moment to visit the aquarium, which is nice but packed (perhaps because of the bad weather too). You can see otters, puffins, seals, porpoises, a whale shark, manta rays, and a sunfish. The theme is to explore the wildlife of the Pacific Rim, North-South-East-West. The visit ends with different types of jellyfish, which were surely my favorite. What made me smile (albeit grimly) was the message of protecting nature from pollution, yet the dose of Made in Vietnam plush toys were still there for business.
Evening is approaching, and I’m already in the center to make the most of the usual areas of the city. First, the Shinsekai district (New World), in the south with its neon lights and a very visual and bright aspect of the city. With the rain and the reflections on the road, it immediately gives a superb ambiance. The attractions include visiting the Tsutenkaku Tower and walking around it to see the extravagant restaurant fronts in the area. I also pass by a store selling Yanki jackets (jackets with embroidery on the back). I’m almost tempted to get one, but my luggage space might be compromised, and it’s a bit pricey.
I then continue to Dotonbori to walk along the watercourse that constitutes the district. The atmosphere is very touristy and crowded, especially in front of the famous Glico runner, which is the well-known photo spot in the area.
I then quickly go to meet my YouTuber friend Fumi with whom we finally managed to arrange an appointment for his YouTube video idea. His concept is to chat with passing or resident foreigners in Japan and ask them about the dish they are sharing together. For us, it will be Shabu Shabu broth fondue. It’s a good opportunity for me to learn how to eat it properly, and it’s nicer to share it than to be alone in front of my pot.
We settle down comfortably, and the recorded discussion begins. The questions come, mostly about my trip, my life, my opinion, and my interest in Japan, etc… At first, I was stressed, but in the end, it’s okay; I get comfortable thanks to his not-too-complicated questions. I wore my little two-star jersey for the occasion, haha.
Then comes the Shabu Shabu exercise: first, we have boiling water in which you can dip any vegetables, tofu, mushrooms available, then you dip your quite fatty meats (beef or pork) for only a few seconds because they are very thinly sliced. This cocktail ultimately gives rise to a very flavorful broth that you then use to dip your noodles in a bowl mixed with another sauce. I feel a bit anti-waste and all is delicious, perfect.
The discussion continues a bit after the meal, and soon it’s time to say goodbye.
Regardless of what he can make of it, the experience was really nice and not so bad stress-wise. Plus, my meal is free, what more could you ask for?
I end up in a somewhat random bar (Cinquecento) run by an Australian who has been living in Osaka for years. His Australian friends also seem to be regulars, already quite well-seasoned, if you know what I mean.
It’s unassuming, but the bartender is very nice, keeps the conversation going, and invites his friends to chat with me. They share their views on their relationships, their opinions on Osaka and the region, and why they prefer it over the rest of Japan. These kinds of discussions can sometimes be the most enriching, so I stay a good while before, of course, my body reminds me that a few drinks are enough to weaken the beast, and I need to go to bed for a beautiful day ahead tomorrow.
Day 40 Osaka/Nara Pause 3
I wake up early to catch a train to Nara, but I’m exhausted 😀 my body doesn’t seem to want to recover.
Another trip for less than 1000 yen (3-4 euro) to connect Osaka to Nara, these transport systems are really gems.
Arriving in the traditional local city, I went straight to a bakery for breakfast. It’s all very French, with some very funny little pastries from my point of view, like Kouign Amann revisited with crème brûlée 😛 I get a lovely pumpkin sweet that’s really good, and I enjoy it.
At the beginning of my visit, I like it without being overwhelmed; the park with shika (Japanese deer) is too touristy, and the animals’ behavior shows it, they just want food and approach to beg regardless of whether you have something or not. Their wild aspect is completely inhibited.
I continue to the Kasuga Taisha shrine, which becomes really nice, especially when the shika pass through and make their noises. It starts to have charm with the animals; the mystical side of the place with the beasts has its effect. It’s a very spiritual place, set in a sort of park/forest. I even met a cute baby shika there. Little Bambi to hug so hard.
I then head to Mount Wakakusa. It offers a beautiful view of the region and especially the city for a little less than an hour’s walk to the top. And here the shika are even better, really not brazen; they go about their business, ask once or twice, and move on like real animals, not extremely wild but accustomed to humans. I prefer this atmosphere with them here. What’s very funny is that I run into the Swiss guy I saw in Gifu (see Day 36). We chat quickly, and I let him continue his journey to Kyushu.
I continue my visit to Todai-Ji Temple. It’s undoubtedly the main attraction of the area, the covered Daibutsu is colossal, and it’s really worth seeing the building. It’s quite amusing to see many groups of children on school trips with their colored hats to avoid losing sight of them in such crowded attractions.
To finish my short stay in Nara (like Shikamaru in Naruto, yes, the reference, that’s why his family has connections with the shika in the Naruto manga), I take the bus to a small temple in the north, the Hannya-Ji. I wanted to admire the last cosmos before the end of the season. It’s very out of the way but still cute and bucolic as an end to the city visit.
I’m enjoying my last few moments in Nara and reminiscing about how far I’ve come. I’m very happy with everything I’ve been able to see and admire, I’m lucky to be able to afford this.
On the way back to Osaka, my body is still drowsy, and I won’t allow myself any more surprise outings in the city. So I taste the Japanese “khinkali”: Butaman. A kind of stuffed and steamed bun (here with pork) that several franchises sell in the city center. Then I just collapse in bed in my last hostel in the city. I’ll finish visiting the southern part of the city tomorrow morning. But for the sake of the article’s structure, I’ve decided to add the following day for the Kyoto region since most of the article will deal with my arrival there. We will see each other again for the part 7, still in Osaka.
